Day 21
Since the next major town – Lang Son was 58 miles away, we made the serendipitous decision to split the distance and located a likely spot for a town along the way. A good thing we did since our ascent continued unabated for the entire day. On a long ascent, we were followed by a group of small children, who raced me up the road, and won effortlessly.
Cached Google maps of China and Vietnam are a bit like a description of a drunken night, bits and pieces are coherent but the details are a blur. A couple of side roads might indicate a town or a dirt trail, Dinh Lap was a bit of both. The whole town is a dusty cul-de-sac with few restaurants, 2 hotels, a small market area and some homes. Here we would have lunch and find a room for the night before the long ascent which most likely would continue tomorrow.
Pointing and gesturing I tried to order 2 bowls of pho, and some ready-made stir fries lying in a cabinet, basically 2 of whatever they had in the little restaurant. Assuming that we were indecisive or undecipherable, the waitress made the urgent call and a minute later, a lady arrived, greeting us cordially with “how do you do?” in perfect English. With her help, our lunch was speedily arranged, and a hotel room secured. When I complimented her English, she informed us that her husband was Australian.
I immediately began concocting scenarios to explain how an Australian could come to live here, in the middle of nowhere, in this tiny little town. Maybe a Vietnamese man from Australia was what she meant. No sooner had I finished my theory than Gary appeared. Wearing a bright orange and reflective silver work shirt he was larger than life, exceptionally so compared to the diminutive Vietnamese. Gary was every bit an Australian, broad, affable and with a hint of mischief. He teased the kids, the waitress, opened a beer with his belt buckle and appeared completely at home, despite speaking very little Vietnamese. We learned that Gary had spent 8 years in Vietnam and had previously called China, Hong Kong and New Zealand home as well.
After a bit of chit-chat, Gary offered us to crash his house, which is right next door to the restaurant. With our trikes and filthy muddy bags, we declined. We did however happily take Gary and his wife Hui, up on their offer to laundry and dinner at their home.
Their generosity afforded us a glimpse of local Vietnamese life. Of course the extended family all either live in the house or the area. In fact many of the people in the village were in some way related. Their home, like many Vietnamese homes, has large doors that open towards the street and a high ceiling which creates a senses of openness, equally displayed by the people who live there. A variety of friends and relatives came and went in the short time we were there.
Having finished a delicious dinner and several ice-cold Coronas, Gary entertained us with stories of his many travels, made possible by his work. As a mechanical engineer specializing in hydraulics, mainly used in mining equipment, Gary does free-lance work anywhere in the world there is a mine. He finally called Vietnam home, working 3 months on in Vietnam and vacationing 2 months off in Australia.
Cher and I now have many reasons to the share own home should we meet any travelers far from theirs.