May 24th: King River to Mataranka Bitter Springs – 61.7 km
Day 223
Our road smoothed out today and we had some moderate head winds. I’m certain that the roads are getting smoother but Cher claims it’s the same. I’m more of an idealist and she’s a realist, which means she’s probably right. With three wheels the road surface makes a big difference in efficiency. We have found that it changes regularly in long sections from coarse and bumpy to smooth.
Just after the turn off for Bitter Springs we found a well stocked, although expensive grocery store and we bought some fresh groceries including eggs and zucchini. We also witnessed a number of aborigines buying boxes of beer. At least 8 people were buying a 30 pack each. This could be for a party but our observation is already biased by what we’ve been told, and by the public drunkenness we’ve seen. Of course seeing twenty some individuals drunk on the street is not indicative of an entire population, but it seemed to us there are some serious problems.
We camped at the Mataranka Cabins and Campground near Bitter Springs, which is walking distance from the springs in Elsey National Park. Within minutes we had set up camp and were in our swim suits. If you are reading this and going there we think it best not to tell you too much about it, but we will tell you make sure to bring some goggles. The water clarity is incredible and Cher said she felt like she was a small fish in an aquarium. I felt as if we had entered a prehistoric pool. Either way it’s worth the trip and the water, fed by thermal springs is right around body temperature.
Now that we had a swim we prepared to do something about Cher’s burned paw. Utilizing our new internet connection, we found that there is divided information on whether to keep or remove a blister depending upon its size, location and time since burn. We had left it for 3 days and decided to drain it. One peer-reviewed study showed that the majority of people who drained their blisters experienced less pain with only a minor increase in infection rate. We sterilized a sewing needle and cleaned the blister with alcohol and Cher did the rest. We then covered it with antibacterial cream and a sterile bandage. Cher was slightly traumatized but it did reduce the pain. Drained in every way we prepared for bed.
When we arrived we noticed a lot little grassy poos around our camp site. I suspected wallabies and made sure to put away our food. Within minutes my observations proved accurate and we were greeted by no less than 5 wallabies sneaking around our camp site. I commented that they looked like giant hopping rats, and Cher told me that the literal translation for Kangaroo in Chinese is “pocket rat” and Wallaby is “sandy pocket rat.” I now wish that was their English name and will try to adopt and spread it. All night the sandy pocket rats hopped around our camp and scrambled through the bush. You adjust quickly and what is curious quickly becomes what is common.