June 5th: Barkly Homestead to a Repeater Tower – 70.5 km
Day 235
We planned on doing 90 km today but the headwinds were just too strong. John, a solo cyclist in his 60’s, was coming the opposite way and informed us that he was doing 25 kph. He added that all he had to do was stretch out his arms. Cher pointed out that we were going the wrong way, and from what we’ve heard this is going to continue until we reach the coast.
John from Perth doing one of his many grand Australia cycling tours
Although we’ve been told by many that our timing is perfect for the weather, and that’s not a coincidence. I checked the weather. The rainy season ends in mid May, and everywhere we go there are signs that indicated the roads flood, up to 2 meters in some places. Traveling on a bicycle would be impossible. However, I never checked the wind speed and direction. We are on a vast plain and there is little to stop the wind. Which as we’ve been informed is seasonal. Despite the wind meeting John did inspire us to quit our whining and to get moving. We are young and our legs can take a little punishment.
We stopped at a rest area for lunch break. Just when Cher suggested a cup of cold coffee a lady hopped out from her RV offering us hot coffee and tea. As we got to talk, we learned that Angela and Cliff have been traveling for 9 years, practically living on the road and doing seasonal farm work. In the meantime we were offered 2 bananas, 2 oranges, a can of tuna to go with our pasta dinner, a sleeve of cookies to go with our tea, and a jar of bush fly repellant. We couldn’t thank them enough, and I had to reserve my negative judgment about caravaners and RVers from our not so pleasant encounter 2 nights ago.
Having reached our new goal of 70 km we began looking for a flat place to camp. I saw a radio repeater tower in the distance and assumed it would have some flat ground around it. The towers were first erected to relay as early telegraph repeater but now transmit more modern signals. Following a dirt road we made it to the top of a very gradual slope overlooking the flat countryside.
It was windy and the bush flies took refuge on the lee side of our jackets. Bush flies are not house flies as Cher discovered and don’t like shady areas. We went into an abandoned building that used to hold batteries and not a fly followed. Outside in the wind they continue to harass us. They don’t bite, but they do want what little protein, moisture of salt they can get from your nose, ears, mouth or exposed skin. Finally the sun set and the flies disappeared.
We cooked at and prepared to watch an episode of Game of Thrones. Yes, we’re traveling but we’re not a nun and a monk living in a cloister.