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Monthly Archives: October 2013

October 15th: Doumenzhen 斗门镇 to Guanghaizhen 广海镇 – 41.6 miles

Posted on 25 October, 2013 by Beast
Day 2

Hot today, felt like the road was melting us. It was at least 33 degrees, not including the heat reflected by the road. We each drank about 4 liters of water, and regardless of hats and thick layers of sunscreen lotion we still managed to get burned.

The plan was to travel on S365 to avoid the highway – S32. Following the directions from Google map, we somehow found ourselves traveling on S32 without a sight of S365, which is supposed to run parallel to the highway S32. At one point, we had to turn back when we reached a toll gate for a bridge crossing, which made itself clear that human powered vehicles are not allowed. This was a bad news, if we couldn’t take the bridge, we would have to take a lengthy detour. But thanks to Cher’s Chinese skills, we found a ferry which would take us across the river in a town not too far away. A little ferry that could hold about 8 motorcycles pulled up and rammed a ramp into the concrete peer, keeping it there by thrusting the engine. We were able to back our trikes onto the ferry, just as other motorcycles did. It was wonderful to be on a ferry, reclined in our lounge chairs, resting assured that we were heading the right direction without any hassle, for just 20 RMB.

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Everything went more smoothly than we could ever imagined, except that fact that we were attracting too many curious motorists. They flew by and looked over their shoulders, slowed down, drove parallel to us and took their time to inspect us without any concerns of their safety or ours, until they nearly veered off the road. Curiosity was not limited to motorists. Fixing my trike outside our hotel I was soon surrounded by a crowd, none of them spoke English yet wanting to communicate. One man forced a pad of paper in my hand with a money sign on it, asking how much our trikes cost. It was probably the one hundred and first time that the question was asked over the past 1 and a half days. I signed zero. I later learned that he had already asked Cher and she had told him the same. I suggested we just make up a lie, but Cher following her rigorous ethical philosophy, didn’t agree. We will see what will happed as Cher is becoming more and more fed up with the same question. We couldn’t figure out why placing a price tag on our trikes was so important to these strangers we came across. Cher had a theory that our trikes are so alien yet so similar to their motorcycles or bicycles, placing a price tag would be a good reference point for them to relate.

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Curious crowd

As of our mileage, we need to slow down or else we will get to Vietnam before our visas become valid. We also need to start camping as we stayed in hotels for 2 consecutive days. We will certainly miss hot showers, especially with the amount of road dust we accumulate on our sweaty bodies.

Posted in Blog | Tags: China | Leave a comment |

October 14th: Hong Kong to Doumenzhen 斗门镇 – 14 miles

Posted on 25 October, 2013 by Beast
Day 1

We finally finished packing and clearing out the apartment at 2 am. 4 hours later, we were on a van heading towards China Ferry Terminal for the boat ride to Doumen, the start point of our long journey. After paying only 60 HKD excess baggage fee for our 2 gigantic trikes, we boarded the ferry. Somehow they only x-rayed our luggage upon arrival, so apparently it is ok to carry around metal containers filled with white gas on a boarding-crossing ferry. Having chosen the 2-hour boat ride to Doumen to avoid traveling through the more densely populated cities surrounding Hong Kong, we found that our choice was correct. We assembled our trikes in a relatively empty parking lot outside of the terminal, and were on the road by 1:30pm.

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Escaping the still bustling city of Doumen was a onslaught of heavy traffic over pot holed roads lumpy enough to make our panniers scrape on the ground. Not only were there large ruts but also large black puddles. Motorcycles, buses, trucks and cars were heading in every direction to avoid the holes, water and our trikes. After stopping multiple times to get our bearings we made it just 14 miles before calling it a day. We found a little motel in Doumenzhen. Eating out instead of cooking was the easiest agreement we have reached. However, the guilt of spending more money than necessary took over and we resolved to start cooking as often as possible, as grocery shops are easy to find along the way.

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Posted in Blog | Tags: China | Leave a comment |

Start!

Posted on 13 October, 2013 by Beast

We had a dream of riding from our doorstep into the great unknown territories. However, the logistic and reality have crushed the romance. There are 4 border crossings between Hong Kong and Mainland China, however none of them are human-powered-vehicle friendly. Either we have to take a train and haul our trikes as over-size luggage then walk through the customs, or we have to take a bus which is more of a hassle than convenience.

Luckily there are plenty of ferry services between Hong Kong and China. A short ferry ride from China Ferry Terminal in Hong Kong to Doumen, Guangdong saves us from riding through Shenzhen, Guangzhou and Zhongshan, 3 of the most densely populated cities in China, and we are more than happy to have a chaos-free start.

Surprisingly, our first real border crossing – Mong Cai, Vietnam is only 707km away from Doumen. At a very leisurely pace (59km/day), we can get there within 12 days. However, our Vietnam visa is valid from November 1, 2013. That means we will have 5 days of spare time before we can cross the border. Ready for slow travel? We shall see.


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Packing List

Posted on 12 October, 2013 by Beast

Packing for an extended trip is a long and tiring process. It is very rewarding as you know you are well prepared with compact luggage. Being self-sufficient yet still lightweight is our main goal. Continue reading →

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Therm-a-Rest ProLite Plus

Posted on 11 October, 2013 by Beast
Posted in Gear | Leave a comment |

Walker’s Haute Route

Posted on 11 October, 2013 by Beast

The Haute Route, (or the High Route or Mountaineers’ Route) is the name given to a route (with several variations) undertaken on foot or by ski touring between Chamonix in France and Zermatt in Switzerland.

The 180-kilometer route is packed with glorious views of glaciers, mountains, and snow-capped peaks. Though the hike is rather strenuous and challenging, there are mountain huts providing ample backpacker’s luxury: hot showers, hot meals, soft beds, cold drinks and stunning views of the glaciers or the alps. The best part of our Haute Route experience was finding a heated mud room for our wet gear after a long hike through a hailstorm.

We were advised that rock climbing skills are not required for this hiking route. However, I was very glad to have the rock climbing experience of knowing how to collect my marbles when we were to take via ferrata.

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Posted in Hiking | Leave a comment |

Diary of a Skimpy Tent

Posted on 11 October, 2013 by Beast

Tent

Once upon a time, Chopper and Cher were lightweight-crazy about their camping/hiking gear. In order to save weight, Chopper spent many sleepless nights on a woman-size Therm-a-Rest ProLite sleeping pads, while Cher painstakingly tried to keep her down sleeping bag away from the wet single-wall tent during cold nights. We did choose this skimpy little Mont-bell Crescent 2 tent for good reasons: it is super lightweight (only 3 pounds), durable, waterproof, easy to set up, and it has a full mesh wall on one side which maximizes the air flow during the dry nights with the rainfly rolled up.

The design is simple and brilliant, yet it was before long that we started to hate its lightweight brilliancy. First of all,  the single pole construction leaves us a very limited head space. We had to take turns to get dressed and pack in the tent simply because it was too crowded for two. Being a very tight 2-person tent,  It is said that this tent can shelter 3 people in emergency, but I think the third person has to be a child under the age of 8 or 3 people have all to be slim Asians. Also, the single shoulder-width entrance is quite challenging to crawl in and out of quickly during rainy days. And when it comes to cold rainy days, the tiny entrance is the least of your worry – the single wall side is always there for you and your down sleeping bags, wet and dripping.

As we decided to strike a balance between comfort and lightweight, we upgraded our headquarter to a double-wall 3-person tent with dual entrance. In memory of our old skimpy little tent, we put together a slide show to remind us those intimate (sometimes uncomfortably so) nights we had.

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Posted in Hiking | 1 Comment |

National Parks

Posted on 11 October, 2013 by Beast

In the summer of 2009, we spent 1 month on the road, hiking and camping at national and state parks around the United States. We started from New York, east-west bound till we hit Big Bend National Park.  Upon reaching Route 1, we traveled northwards and visited many impressive national and state parks along the way, including Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and Mount Rainier National Park. After getting out of Olympic National Park, we traveled eastwards and had our grand finale – a canoe/hiking/fishing trip at Isle Royale National Park. Among more than 30 national parks that we hiked and camped, it is very hard to say which one is the best. However, we ended up visiting Isle Royale National Park again during the summer of 2013.

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Posted in Hiking | 1 Comment |

Packing Philosophy

Posted on 10 October, 2013 by Beast

Living on the road requires us to be comfortable enough to keep going but not so comfortable that our comforts are a burden. We came a long way to find the balance between comfort and lightweight when it comes to packing. Continue reading →

Posted in Resources | Leave a comment |
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