October 27th: Gaoqiaozhen 高桥镇 to Hepu 合浦 – 45.77 miles
Day 14
What a day of rest can do! That and a gently rolling landscape. We were up and on the road by 7:30 and arrived in Hepu at 2pm, almost 46 miles away. At no time did either of us feel fatigued. We even stopped for a stretch every ten miles as the precepts of slow travel dictate. A better training regimen for the mountains that we will surely come to could not have been better designed. We are getting stronger and faster but don’t feel as if we are pushing ourselves. It has been a natural progression.
Our progression was also hastened by the cool, dry weather we had today. However, we were still coated in a thick layer of dust from the road. Since our trikes are at tire height, any large vehicles that pass throw up a cloud of dust that settles on us as we pass through it. It’s a good thing we have large flags made out of neon construction vests as well as a vest strung across the back to give us increased visibility. After seeing how much attention we have attracted, we have no doubt that we are indeed very visible and have to remove our flags at lunch so we don’t draw too much of a crowd.
Our momentum only slowed when the road suddenly narrowed to a single lane, usually with very little notice. Huge pits capable of swallowing a car to its windows were marked with only a tree limb and some orange grocery bags. These constant hazards were to our advantage because it required the truckers to remain vigilant and to drive slowly. Many of the trucks that passed us did so slowly and carefully. They always make sure to honk as they approach and pass. Although I’m thankful for this, Cher and I are almost certainly going deaf from the repeated blasts. I’m beginning to feel that the trucks may not be as menacing as they appear, although we will certainly keep on eye on the road and another on the rear view mirror.
We are seeing more fields of sugarcane, oranges, bananas, dragon fruit and pineapples as we move west. This is great for tropical fruit but bad for fair skinned white men. We exhausted our first tube of sunscreen and went looking for more. We have found that sunscreen lotions are considered a beauty product and as such comes in tiny little bottles with expensive price tags. To avoid using so much sunscreen, we’ve started covering up. Our synthetic clothing has been doing a good job at keeping us cool and dry.
While Cher was using the bathroom at a gas station, I was captured by a group of “shy” Chinese teens. Eight of them piled out of tiny van like clowns out of a clown car and rushed me. They must have been planning it while inside, because their phones and cameras were at the ready and a coordinated photo attack ensued. Without asking, arms were thrown over my shoulder and around my waist while they flashed the obligatory peace sign. I joined them, reluctantly. I snapped a photo of them checking out Cher’s trike and bombing her with the usual FAQs after she returned from the bathroom.
We quickly found a hotel in another large town and quickly dispensed with our duties – unpacking, moving the bags, hauling trikes into the room, showering, sink laundry, food, reading and then bed before 8pm, as always early.