November 2nd: Quang Ha to Tien Yen – 30.61 miles
Day 20
Today felt like 3 days in one. So much good fortune, that despite the burning heat we had a joyous day. Our terrain was quite hilly. Our trikes were like cars on a roller coaster, slowly ratcheting up to the apex before unleashing our kinetic energy on the slopes below. It was exhilarating as we easily reached speeds of 30 mph with our butts just skimming the ground. Cruising by a roadside restaurant, we stopped in for a very early lunch at what we thought was 11:30 as we were still on China time, but it was actually only 10:30 local time.
Having finished our pho, the proprietor invited us to join his table to taste some of the local specialties, a salad made from banana flowers, and steamed mussels which we washed down with rice wine. Usually made at home in large ceramic pots, ruos gao or rice wine, is about 40% alcohol. After downing 2 small glasses we indicated that we were full, but our host insisted. After several more drinks, naturally it was karaoke time.
Our host took the lead and sang with great passion, as his friend signed that he was singing out of love for Cher and I by covering his heart and pointing at the two us. We were then invited to sing, and not having the heart to refuse I sang an off-key rendition of Come as You Are, by Nirvana, followed by a spot on rendition of Baa Baa Black Sheep. Neither of these were my personal request. Then after being thoroughly warmed up, (a moment I’m sure our host had waited a very long time for), we sang a Vietnamese / English duet. I began to wonder what the lyrics were in Vietnamese, as I sang “skin to skin under the sheets with you.” Not put off by the lyrics, we finished our duet, and in the spirit of love our passionate host let me know that he loved me as well. Cher went next and sang a couple of moving songs in Chinese. I watched as our host repeatedly gave me a look that said, lucky you, and indeed he is correct.
More rice wine flew in our direction, until we had to pull ourselves away to get back on the road. We were assured that we could take a nap at their house, but we wanted to get to the next town before dark. Settling into our cockpits and feeling pleasantly buzzed, I was quite happy that we stopped for lunch and that we have 3 wheels.
We arrived in Tien Yen around 2pm and found a room. After our normal chores and washing up we went out for pho. At 1.50 USD per bowl it’s a great deal. A large bowl comes filled with noodles, tofu, shrimp, beef, pork, and sausage, although sometimes you may only get one type of meat. As always it was served with a basket of leafy greens, such as buttery lettuce, thai basil, mint and coriander and some small limes. After dinner, the owners daughter, no more than 12 of age, offered to show us around the town. Clustered with a variety of colorful row homes, and populated by some of the most friendly people, this quiet suburb was an extremely relaxing spot. Our new friend and guide, Sot, took us to a park by the river, accompanied by several of her friends.
Taking leave of Sot, she promised to come see us off in the morning. Though we had only known each other for such a short period of time, I couldn’t help feeling a bit emotional when she asked us again and again, when we would come back to Tien Yen. The Vietnamese are some the warmest, friendliest people that we’ve encountered in all of our travels to date.