November 17th: Climbing in Huu Lung
Day 35
Started so early today that we scared a rooster in mid-call. I watched him strut out to the road side, his head held high, his chest jutting out, and just as he was in all his glory and he began to crow, we passed by on our human powered vehicles. Half of his yodel was caught in his throat as his voice changed from a cocky warble into a hennish scream and he ruffled his feathers and fled. We were both laughing but Cher took the most delight, having been bullied by her parents’ rooster when she was 5.
Another great day. Red pointed War and Peace, a 7A and said to be one of the best climb on the main crag. Feeling exhausted and having no skin left on our finger tips, we left early and found that our trikes were locked in the garage of the house we parked in front of. We assumed that they had offered to let us park there after my mirror was stolen. We waited for 30 minutes while some local ladies went to fetch the home-owners. As we waited they tried to feed us and even offered us the use of their scooter to take to town for some grub. Wary of driving a motorized 2 wheeled vehicle, we declined and waited patiently.
The home owner returned and then tried charge us 40,000 VND as we were leaving. Thinking this was the land use fee we motioned that we already paid the landowner who stopped to chit chat with the other ladies gathered around to watch us. Then we realized that this was for parking at the house, and that the other day when we thought we paid for land use, we were actually paying for parking.
We were disappointed and felt that we were being taken advantage of. We could have parked practically anywhere for free, but they offered without indicating they wanted us to pay, and to make matters worse she charged us after my mirror was stolen and her kids were playing on our trikes. It wasn’t an issue of money, just that we both felt deceived. I found the word honest, made sure I had some one read it and motioned no, not, and dis-, making all the no and negating gesticulations I could think of. We refused to pay and took off.
We both found it hard to reconcile the fact that sometimes people are so generous, feeding us, wanting to lend us their scooters, inviting us into their homes, while others appear greedy for money. When we first arrived and shopped at the markets we received a fair price. After we returned several times we had people pushing us and waving their produce in our face. Many people have their own gardens and supplement their meals with produce from the market. So comparatively we buy a lot of goods, and with language barriers we don’t bargain. Everyone tried to take advantage of the situation and we soon became a target. We realize that getting as much as one can is a result of having live through such meager times, but wanting to leave on the positive side, we thought it was time to move on.
We cycled out of the valley for the last time, and said goodbye to our friend Kiem. We were both satisfied that we had found and climbed Huu Lung and could now provide other independent travelers with the know-hows of a lovely isolated spot.
On the advice of the climbers we met, we changed our plan and will be going to Thakhek instead of Vang Vieng. Looking forward to a new scenery.